If you’re old enough to remember the Mamas and the Papas, you’ll remember the lyrics, “Monday, Monday, can’t trust that day. Monday, Monday, sometimes it just turns out that way.”
This turned out to be accurate for my recent trip to Muskogee. I had an afternoon interview scheduled in Fort Gibson, a few miles east.
My plan was to stop in Muskogee and check things out. I particularly wanted to see the Oklahoma Music Hall of Fame and the Three Rivers Museum. Both were closed on Monday. Fortunately, there were other things to do in town.
Jack and I started with Honor Heights Park. I’d been there several times during the Azalea Festival, held each April. Then the park is filled with thousands of azaleas — a riot of pink, white, red, orange, and lavender. Hundreds of tulips and daffodils dance in the breeze. Dogwoods and redbuds put on a show.
I wasn’t sure what I would see in late summer. The main part of the park reverts to green grass and lots of shade. Picnic tables and playgrounds invite families to eat and play.
A formal garden area, Papilion, has been added since I was last there. – the name is a marriage of the words “pavilion” and “papillon” (French for butterfly). This area includes a butterfly house, which is open until Sept. 30.
Raised beds, created by local Master Gardeners, carry out a rainbow theme with hardy blossoms which can take the hot weather — lantanas, hibiscus, petunias, penstemon, celosia and more. Tables with brightly colored umbrellas offered shade perfect for al fresco dining.
Musical instruments in the Children’s Garden tempt young ones, and, I have to admit, I had to try them, too.
There are several fishing ponds in the 132-acre park, along with an arboretum, tennis courts and three walking trails. Summer splash pads offer cooling spots for little ones.
The park’s other big event is the Garden of Lights, which runs from Thanksgiving Day through New Year’s Day.
The leafless azalea and rose bushes bloom again with over one million colored lights. Trees are wrapped in lights and ground displays feature woodland animals.
The park is open year-round — but driving through is not always possible. Preparations for both the Azalea Festival and Garden of Lights necessitate closing the roads for safety’s sake.
The fall closing will begin Oct. 30. Parking is available near the 48th Street entrance.
Atop the hill, just south of the main entrance to Honor Heights Park, you’ll find the Five Civilized Tribes Museum. The building, built in 1875, was originally the Union Indian Agency. Although there have been alterations to the building over the years, you can still see the hand-cut stones which had to be brought up the hill by horse drawn wagons.
Exhibits feature the Five Civilized Tribes: Cherokee, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Muskogee (Creek), and Seminole. A multi-colored map indicates the main removal routes of the tribes with a representative item from each group. The Cherokees are represented by a pipe and hymn book; the Chickasaws by a woman’s ribboned comb; Choctaws, a quiver and arrows; Creeks by a pottery bowl and trade beads; and Seminoles with a child’s doll.
In another display, maps show the allocation of tribal territories, which covered all of present Oklahoma with the exception of the panhandle in the 1830s, to their diminution into the State of Oklahoma.
For generations, treaties were ignored, but, at some point, the state put up signs designating tribal areas. Things became interesting as the government dealt with nations pushing for recognition of their governments and legal rights. Most recently, the McGirt Decision involved tribal land, sovereignty and authority. A good display hits the highlights of the decision and what it means.
Other exhibits feature culture, artifacts and antiques. The museum also has an area for special exhibits. Until Sept. 30, the art of Jerome Tiger is on display. The gift shop carries books, prints and Native-American produced arts and crafts.
Our third stop was lunch — at Harmony House. The 1914 home is a hotbed of ladies who lunch — and the gentlemen who like good food. The restaurant has been a Muskogee-must since the early ‘90s.
It was started by a grandmother, mother, daughter trio dedicated to good, home-made food. They, the Cochrell family, owned the restaurant for 25 years. By that time, the business was solely owned by the daughter, Beth Cockrell Stacy.
It was purchased in 2017 by Mandy Scott, who says, “I’ve always loved to cook and wanted to own my own restaurant. I worked in restaurants through college and enjoyed the fast pace. I was going to start one when I heard Beth was selling.”
She continues, “I’m a people person and enjoy my customers.”
Many of those customers are regulars — often from the Cockrell days — and they have their favorites. “We’ve kept the menu the same, only added a few new things. And everything is made from scratch.”
Jack had a version of one of the original sandwiches — Beth’s Grilled Chicken in a Pita. Instead of the whole sandwich, he opted for a cup of tomato soup and half a sandwich. The pocket bread was house-made and stuffed with diced chicken, lettuce, tomato, green onions, mayo and shredded Cheddar. This was no dainty finger-sandwich, but a manly handful.
I was feeling tea-roomy and had the Salad Plate — Neiman Marcus’ chicken salad with a cheese wedge, homemade, toasted raisin bread and a blast from the past — Jello with fruit. I think this is the first time I’ve seen Jello on a menu (outside of the kiddie menu) in years!
Altogether, it was a delightful lunch and a fitting coda to my quick visit to Muskogee. But I’ll be back — there are more things to see here.
