Exploring Serbia, One of the Most Underrated Travel Destinations

“Why Serbia?”

That seemed to be the prevailing question ahead of my first trip to the landlocked Balkan country at the crossroads of Southeast and Central Europe (not to be confused with Siberia, a distinction I was not previously aware needed to be made). 

Due largely to its embattled history and, at times, fraught relationship with the U.S., Serbia has long been a bit of a question mark for many Americans, certainly not helped any by Hollywood’s unimaginative but long-standing portrayal of Serbs as mercenaries, or run-of-the-mill bad guys and little else. You could almost forgive someone for the confusion.

That said, after having spent the better part of a week there, I can confirm that there is far more to Serbia than even I initially thought. From a tourism perspective, it has a ton on offer. Further, and crucially, the Serbs are a hospitable people who want nothing more than to show visitors that they’re actually “good guys.” (“We are good!” my Serbian guide, Bojana Sestovic, assured me upon meeting.) 

I didn’t need much by way of reassurance, though — the goodness is palpable. It radiates off of them, which admittedly creates an interesting juxtaposition with the rest of Europe where, as Hayley Domin wrote for Fodor’s, anti-tourism is on the rise. “[W]ith backlashes in Spain, Italy, Portugal, Greece, the Netherlands and others — it’s difficult to know how you’ll be accepted as a tourist while on the continent,” Domin noted.

Further, at a time when “destination dupes” and “undiscovered gems” are more coveted than ever, it’s almost a miracle that Serbia has continued to fly under the radar on the international stage. According to CEIC data, it welcomed a record-high of 282,070 visitors in August 2024. For context, its neighbor Croatia welcomed 4,246,337 that same month. But while it may not enjoy the same views of the Adriatic Sea, it has just as much charm. (Plus, it can’t be accessed by cruise ships, which I personally count among the “pros.”)

All of that said, if you, too, still find yourself asking, “Why Serbia?”, here’s why you should be asking yourself, “Why not Serbia?” instead.

Belgrade

Belgrade is not only Serbia’s capital and largest city but also one of the oldest in Europe (more on that shortly). Thanks to its strategic location at the crossroads of Eastern and Western Europe, it’s long been a vital hub for both trade and travel. Positioned at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, the city is home to around 1.6 million people — and beyond its historical significance, it’s also just a really cool place.

Within hours of our arrival, Bojana had us out exploring, eager to show off her city. It seamlessly intertwines old and new, historic and modern. Case in point: our hotel opened onto beautiful cobblestone streets, yet just next door was an H&M (a convenient find after realizing I’d forgotten to pack sunglasses). Local boutiques, art and antique shops, bars and bakeries stand alongside sites like the Saint Sava Temple, and cultural institutions such as the Nikola Tesla Museum and the House of Flowers.

Everywhere we went, the streets were bustling, and everyone inexplicably seemed to know each other. Bojana introduced us to friends and colleagues at every turn — even though we had only just met her. The warmth of the city’s social fabric became even more evident a few days later when we toured the Royal Palace of Serbia. Midway through, we were informed that the Crown Princess Katherine was in residence and wished to personally welcome us. In Serbia, cordiality is par for the course, regardless of rank.

The History

Serbia’s rich and storied history stretches back to the Early Stone Age, with evidence of human settlement dating as far back as 12,000 years ago. On the banks of the Danube in eastern Serbia lies Lepenski Vir, Europe’s oldest known settlement. Inhabited intermittently for millennia, this archaeological site is a treasure trove of ancient history. Just a stone’s throw from the Romanian border, visitors can explore its remains, including nearly 100 sandstone boulders carved with fish-like faces and the skeletal remains of those who once crafted them.

Less than an hour from Lepenski Vir, near the modern-day town of Požarevac, stands another remarkable relic of the past: Viminacium. Once a thriving Roman city and military camp, it now offers a glimpse into antiquity with over 1,400 frescoed tombs, a thermae and the ruins of an amphitheater. As a bit of an archaeology nerd, I found these sites alone more than enough reason to visit Serbia — but they were only the tip of the iceberg.

A short half-hour drive from Lepenski Vir is Golubac Fortress, a medieval stronghold perched at the entrance of the Iron Gate Gorge, where the Danube meets the Carpathian Mountains. Shrouded in mystery, the fortress’s exact origins remain unknown. After years of neglect, it was restored in 2011 and recognized as a site of great cultural significance — a fortunate turn of events for all who now get to experience its grandeur firsthand, myself included.

But you don’t even need to leave Belgrade to immerse yourself in Serbia’s illustrious history. The Belgrade Fortress, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, has stood as a strategic military stronghold for centuries, with roots tracing back to Roman times. Over the years, it has been occupied by Celts, Byzantines, Ottomans and Austrians — each leaving their mark. Today, it’s not only a historical monument but also a city park, though it continues to serve as a powerful symbol of Belgrade’s resilience.

The Food (and Drink) Scene

Food is where Serbian hospitality really shines. I didn’t go a half hour without Bojana asking if I’d had enough to eat. In fact, after finding out I had a taste for gianica — essentially a cheese-filled pastry, very traditional in the Balkans — she made me some to bring home.

My introduction to Serbian cuisine began at Manufaktura, though, a restaurant designed to resemble an old-fashioned grocery store. Its menu, described as a “travelogue with history lessons” and a showcase of “the best of Balkan cuisine,” made it the perfect place to start. That evening, we dined at Dva Jelena — established in 1832, it’s one of the oldest restaurants in the region. The menu highlights beloved national dishes, and there’s almost always live Balkan folk music playing in the background.

Later in the week, we ventured to Zemun, a charming municipality within Belgrade, for a meal at Restaurant Кapetanija. Even if just for the panoramic views of the Danube, it’s worth visiting.

For something truly unforgettable on the Belgrade dining scene, Lorenzo & Kakalamba is a must. The cuisine leans Italian, and while the food is excellent, it’s the outrageous decor that steals the show. The restaurant claims its interior will leave you “speechless,” and that’s no exaggeration. Described elsewhere as “schizophrenic,” it’s packed with mismatched furniture, provocative art and possibly the largest — and strangest — collection of tchotchkes I’ve ever encountered. It’s a full-blown sensory adventure.

One of my favorite meals of the trip, however, was at Ambar, a modern spot praised by the Michelin Guide. The focus here is on small plates that reinterpret traditional Balkan dishes in a fresh, contemporary way.

If you think Serbia doesn’t know how to party, think again — its nightlife is legendary. Belgrade is teeming with vibey cocktail bars, underground clubs and live music venues, but no experience is more quintessential than a night in a kafana. These traditional taverns offer a cozy atmosphere, hearty local fare, generous pours of homemade rakia and, of course, live folk music. One standout was Kolubara u Šoru, which bills itself as “a place of traditional tavern hedonism” — I can confirm it lived up to the claim.

Just around the corner, Urban Distillery is a hidden gem. This micro-distillery produces more than 20 types of spirits, but rakia is the star. This potent fruit brandy — typically 40% ABV or stronger — is a Serbian staple, made from plums, grapes, quince, apricots and more. Urban Distillery’s in-house label, Branko, is a “premium hand-crafted distillate” made from locally grown fruit, and it proudly supports local farmers.

And of course, no exploration of Belgrade nightlife is complete without experiencing its famous floating clubs, or splavs, on the Sava and Danube rivers. Known for their wild energy and late-night revelry, they’re popular enough that booking ahead is wise.

Outside the Capital

Beyond Belgrade, Serbia offers a wealth of experiences well-worth venturing out for. The Autonomous Province of Vojvodina, in particular, is home a number of towns and cities that make for great excursions. One standout is Novi Sad, Serbia’s second-largest city, renowned for its art scene, architecture and the iconic Petrovaradin Fortress. In 2022, it was named the European Capital of Culture — a testament to its rich heritage.

Just a short journey from Novi Sad lies Sremski Karlovci, a picturesque town celebrated for its historical roots. Today, however, it’s equally famous for its winemaking tradition. Serbia produces some truly exceptional wines, including the renowned Bermet dessert wine. A visit to the Živanović Winery — both a beekeeping museum and wine cellar — is a perfect introduction to the region’s specialities.

For those drawn to experiences of the wine variety, Vršac, near the Romanian border, is another must-visit. This city is widely recognized for its centuries-old viticulture, celebrated each year at the Grape Harvest Festival. But Vršac is more than just a haven for wine lovers. Nestled beneath the 15th-century Vršac Tower atop the Vršac Hills, the town boasts a rich history reflected in its baroque and neoclassical architecture. Here, too, history enthusiasts will find plenty to explore, from the Vršac City Museum to the Pharmacy on the Stairs — an 18th-century apothecary-turned-museum that provides a glimpse into the town’s past.

Also within the Vršac municipality is the village of Gudurica, home to a cluster of exceptional wineries. Among them is Vinarija Rnjak, a family-run estate operated by Miroslav and Ljiljana Rnjak. Set against a bucolic landscape, the winery offers tastings of a variety of vintages, including the award-winning Cuvée. Consider it a crash course in Serbian winemaking excellence.