Michelle Dickerson rolled her eyes. She’d heard it so many times before. But we couldn’t help ourselves — we had to sing the Monkeys song.
It’s hard not to belt out “Last Train to Clarksville” when visiting the Tennessee town about 45 minutes northwest of Nashville. Unfortunately, Dickerson, public relations director of Visit Clarksville, has heard it too many times.
Sing the song if you must, Dickerson told us, but enjoy the vast outdoor adventures Clarksville has to offer, especially this time of year.
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The nine-mile Clarksville Greenway takes visitors through winding hills, bridges and stretches of fields where wildlife are often spotted.
Parks and greenway
Founders established Clarksville for its proximity to the Cumberland River and visitors may hike or bike the 5-mile Cumberland Riverwalk that showcases both the river and downtown. There’s even a pedestrian bridge across the water that lights up at night, the perfect sunset scenario.
The 9-mile Clarksville Greenway takes visitors through winding hills, bridges and stretches of fields where wildlife are often spotted. Rotary Park’s 6 miles of hiking and bike trails show off creekside forests now turning autumnal colors, in addition to the park’s interactive nature center where a host of birds may be spotted.
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Old Glory Distilling Co. offers a tour that ends with a tasting. Plans are to expand with a restaurant, stage for live music and a silo bar.
Tennessee history
In the 1700s, Revolutionary War veteran John Sevier established a station that provided a bird’s-eye view of the Cumberland and Red rivers. During the Civil War, soldiers quickly built earthen works at the site to defend the city.
“These earthen defenses were built in six days,” said William Parker, interpreter at Clarksville’s Fort Defiance Civil War Park and Interpretive Center. “A real fort took years to build. When the gunboats are up the river, you don’t have three to five years. And earthen forts are extremely effective.”
Clarksville surrendered without a fight and the site was abandoned. When the property was donated to the city, residents had to pull away mounds of trash, Parker said.
“But when they cleaned the place up, there was a perfectly preserved Civil War fort,” he said.
Today, the park run by the city offers beautifully preserved earthen works and insight into the Civil War’s civilian experience. Hiking trails through the park’s forests offer breathtaking views of the rivers.
The acreage surrounding Dunbar Cave also turns fall hues of orange and red, but what’s underground is what drives visitors to this Tennessee State Park. The cave dates back thousands of years and contains prehistoric Mississippian Native American cave art. Guided cave tours only take visitors inside seasonally, but the cave entrance may be viewed along the park’s 3 miles of hiking trails.
It’s a trip back in time at Collinsville Pioneer Settlement’s collection of 16 original log structures from the 1800s situated on 40 acres. Even the visitor center dates to 1830. Costumed docents not only show visitors the buildings filled with period furnishings but allow them to taste fireplace biscuits or read schoolbooks used in another century. Special events include lantern tours in October, Heritage Days in August and the 1860s Tennessee Christmas celebration, which sells out fast.
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Kevin Smith cooks up innovative barbecue at Legends, and what’s barbecue without sauce? His original sauces include peanut butter, blueberry, peach and Lucy, which is short for Lucifer. Yes, it’s that hot.
City’s culinary scene
Start the day with delectable pastries and the largest cinnamon roll we’ve ever seen at Wild Flour Bake Shop, an inconspicuous coffee shop inside a strip mall.
For lunch, head to Legends where veterans Kevin and Yvette Smith serve up fabulous barbecue, such as the Big Poppy Burger consisting of French onions, avocados and caramelized peaches on a burger patty or the Lazy Dog, sausage smoked out back and topped with pulled pork. There’s a wide variety of original sauces: peanut butter, blueberry, peach and Lucy, which is short for Lucifer because it’s that hot.
Take advantage of cool fall evenings at The Mailroom, a converted 1940s post office where outdoor seating overlooks downtown and the Cumberland River — although the inside dining room is quite exquisite.
For something unique, the Mad Herbalist lets you choose teas from a wide selection, then delivers the cups resembling artwork to your table. Lunch and brunch are available inside this historic home, but don’t miss the chance to discover new tea varieties.
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Choose from a wide varieties of teas at The Mad Herbalist, located in a historic home in Clarksville, Tenn.
As for spirits, Clarksville owns a winery, meadery, three distilleries and seven breweries. Strawberry Alley Ale Works serves up delicious meals and Wendy and Eric Brannstrom give their rotating brews military references at Tennessee Valley Brewing Co., an homage to nearby Fort Campbell. The small-batch artisan Old Glory Distilling Co. offers a fun “experience” tour that ends with a bar serving up its many spirits. They plan to expand with a restaurant, stage for live music and a silo bar.
“If you’re coming for a tasting, you can hang out for a few hours,” said Old Glory owner Matt Cunningham. “We want to be a true destination.”
The Monkeys may have sung about not coming back from military service, but for visitors to Clarksville today, the lyrics may refer to the town’s outstanding outdoor adventures and culinary heaven. Visitors may end up singing, “I don’t know if I’m ever coming home.”
To discover more fall adventures in Clarksville, go to visitclarksvilletn.com/falltravel.